Climbing 1237 Steps To Buddhist Nirvana At Krabi

It’s possible to find solace even in an overtly touristic place like Krabi. All you have to do is know where to look

If you thought Krabi and the islands surrounding the region were all about the sea, think again. Hidden in plain sight for anyone interested is the Buddhist temple of Wat Tham Suea or Tiger Cave Temple. All you have to do is look up. Literally, just look up and you’re likely to see tiny Buddhist statues from the ground. Until you reach the Tiger Cave complex that is. This is when I found that the summit with golden Buddhas on top was 1237 steps away.

Now, the idea of a climb always excites me. Hence, I wasn’t overtly worried about those steps. I checked my bag for water and set off with three of my friends. Here’s the story of my journey divided in five ‘steps’.

Step 0

The Tiger Cave Temple is fairly new compared to other Buddhist temples that dot Thailand. It’s foundation was laid in 1975 after Jumnean Seelasettho, a Vipassana-practicing monk, saw tigers roaming in the area while meditating. This is how the temple got its name, although locals will probably tell you some legend about the naming of Tiger Cave Temple. What they all agree on is that the views from the top are spectacular, with views of all of Krabi to look at.

The giant complex at the base is probably because the locals and monks anticipated tourists and religious folk to the temple. It only made sense to have a complex featuring stores that sell Buddhist items and temples for those who can’t make the climb to the top.

I looked around the vast area and began my ascent to the top, fairly certain I’d make it in good time.

Step 100

By Step 100, I saw that the ground seemed tantalizingly close and people around me beginning to pant. Taking deep breaths, they realised, along with me, that we had probably set out at the wrong time. Climbing over 1000 steps just before noon isn’t the smartest of things to do but I was on a tight schedule so it really couldn’t be helped. I tried to figure the views and cool air waiting for me on top and started the climb from here deciding that I wouldn’t doubt myself until I reached the very top.

Step 500

My resolve seemed on pretty shaky ground by Step 500. I had managed to climb at a stretch while refusing to listen to my calf muscles that were howling at me to stop. I would have carried on for some more steps when unexpected visitors stopped me dead in my tracks. Monkeys! Yes, wild, unpredictable and seemingly dangerous monkeys started crowding around the stairs where some patrons were indulging them. I have a previous incident with monkeys that makes it very difficult for me to get along with them so I was hoping to find a clearing and scoot my way through these steps. After a long break, I finally got my chance and plowed ahead, laughing at the fact that I was at a ‘tiger’ temple and slightly scared of monkeys!

Step 1000

By the 1000^th Step, I was ready to be airlifted to the top. I had just left behind too many vertiginous steps and had taken a well-deserved break. I could see the summit a few steps ahead and a few tourists and locals gave encouraging signs as they passed down. I, on the other hand, wanted to sit here forever until a Thai masseuse had given the best leg massage ever. Eventually, I saw a German couple carrying their babies on their back going past me with a smile as if the climb was a walk down the park. I quickly fell in step behind them and was on my way to the top.

Step 1237

Finally, the top of Tiger Cave Temple. And what majestic views. It was thoroughly worth the climb to this place and monks worshipping the Buddha at such a height. The smaller dieties, including a Thai version of Ganpati, was another unexpected surprise. And the views? They were as good as the locals on the ground had promised, if not better. (Pics below).

It’s not life-changing but the time spent at Tiger Cave Temple are some of the best moments from my Thailand trip. I wondered how many tourists, especially Indians, come to Krabi and head straight for the islands without ever discovering this tranquil and serene place. If only more of them looked up and saw the wonder awaits them up here.

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