The sudden rise of independence for Catalonia in 2017 is not a new phenomenon. Not for residents of Barcelona anyway. The region has been fighting for independence for centuries. A casual walk around the city is not enough to understand the simmering tension the locals feel for the Spanish government.
There is one place in Barcelona that offers a tantalizing glimpse of this centuries-old struggle – the Mercat del Born in the lively La Ribera district. Known today as the Born Centre for Culture and Memory, the Mercat del Born operated for a century as a market before falling into disuse. When it was decided to convert the place a library in 2002, excavations revealed the way people in the region lived between the 14th and 17th centuries before the War of Succession changed Barcelona in particular and Catalonia in general.
The excavated remains of the Mercat del Born are a must-visit for any visitor who wants to know more about CataloniaToday, the Born CCM covers an area of 8000 square metres, making it the biggest covered square in Europe. As soon as you enter, you can see the excavated remains of roads and houses that clearly show how people lived in the region hundreds of years ago. As you walk along, you will also find information plaques that will tell you everything you want to know about Catalonia – and how it fell into Spanish hands.
To tell a long story short, the events that led to Catalonia being a part of Spain do sound unjust when you read about the history of the place. It seems unfair that an entire population had to adhere to strict rules from Madrid without any say-so until as recently as General Franco’s dictatorship in Spain. A region that was not allowed to speak its own language or hold its own festivals has a lot to be angry about.
Information plaques will guide you through the region’s history of suppression and oppression suffered through the agesI have friends who have been born and raised in Barcelona and they desperately look forward to freedom from Spain. According to them, Catalonia contributes the maximum money to Spain but receives little to no attention from the central government. The current lockdown between the Spanish government and the regional Catalan government doesn’t benefit either of them but things will take a long time to get back to normal, whatever that ends up being. Given the context, the Born CCM has a larger role to play in today’s time than it ever has.
The Born CCM is not a museum but a living place that tells its story through those who have died to keep the flag of Catalonia alive for so long. While the centre is free to walk around, you need to pay a small fee to visit the exhibition and selected excavated items. If you’re really keen on understanding the region’s history, you can also take a guided tour. (Details here)
The place has a bigger role to play today than at any other time in recent historyRest assured, a visit to this place even as a tourist will give you the entire backstory of the region and add perspective to all the news coming out from the region and its recent referendum.
How To Get Here:
The entrance of El Born CCM in BarcelonaBy Metro: Take Line 4 to Barceloneta
By Bus: Select between Bus Nos 39, 51, 120 or H14
By Foot: The best way to discover this place if you’re in the El Born neighbourhood, Gothic Quarter or Barceloneta beach. The place is open between 10 AM to 8 PM everyday except Mondays and special occasions
Further Reading: What Makes Catalonia Different From Spain
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